Cool in fashion, tool for communication

During the Victorian era, the fan reached the peak of its success as it became more accessible for the emerging middle class. Later on, the slimmer silhouette in fashion encouraged a new style: cockade fans. The leaf could open into a complete circle, but came with a more simple design. As the times changed yet again, in the 20th century they began to fall out of favor, and were primarily used as souvenirs, decorations or advertisements.

In a time when women were restricted by social etiquette norms, the fan was also used as a means of communication. A book published in 1797, Fanology or the Ladies Conversation Fan, gave a list of explicit instructions on how to use it to convey discreet messages. According to the book, the English alphabet was divided into five hand positions (with the letter J excluded):

Hold the fan in left hand and touch your right arm = A–E

Hold the fan in right hand and touch your left arm = F–K

Place the fan against your heart = L–P

Raise the fan to your mouth = Q–U

Raise the fan to your forehead = V–Z