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Breaking 'barrels' and glass ceilings

By LIU KUN in Wuhan and GUI QIAN | China Daily | Updated: 2024-06-26 06:21
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Shi (left) briefs one of her team members on the day's tasks on June 24. [Photo by Gao Pengbo/For China Daily]

Nurturing craftsmanship

Over the span of seven years, Master Qian imparted crucial skills and techniques to Shi, such as sensory methods: feeling moisture differences by touch, assessing sorghum's texture by squeezing it, tasting acidity to evaluate fermentation quality, smelling to identify prominent aromas, and observing bubbles to determine alcohol content.

Additionally, Master Qian established an intangible cultural heritage preservation division within the distillery which collaborates with research institutions to investigate various metrics of baijiu using quantitative data. Shi actively engages in these initiatives, frequently shuttling between the workshop and the laboratory.

Beyond technical skills, Shi learned the significance of a craftsman's spirit from her mentor.

"Master stressed that work ethic and mindset are crucial for professional success. He taught me to fully commit to work, maintain a clear boundary between work and personal life, and focus solely on work during working hours," she recalled.

Gradually, Shi overcame her anxiety and impatience. "A proficient distiller must endure solitude and commit wholeheartedly to their craft without ever thinking of giving up," she said. "It may take a decade, two, or even longer to master this industry."

As veteran distillers retire one by one, a new wave of young talent is entering the distillery, much to Shi's delight. Seeing an increasing number of young people joining this age-old industry brings her hope and motivation.

Simultaneously, young consumers are taking a central role in the baijiu market. According to a white paper on the China baijiu industry in 2023, released by the China Alcoholic Drinks Association, there is a generational shift in the primary consumer demographic for baijiu.

Data indicates that individuals born between 1985 and 1994 are emerging as the predominant consumers, taking up 34 percent of the market. Meanwhile, the post-1995 generation (excluding those under 18) accounts for 18 percent of the market share.

To attract younger consumers, many renowned baijiu companies are adopting the "baijiu+" model, introducing innovations like baijiu-infused ice cream, liquor-filled chocolates, baijiu-flavored coffee, and beauty products derived from distillery by-products.

"Young people are full of energy and creativity. I aspire for the new generation of distillers, me included, to break free from conventional constraints and come up with innovative ideas and solutions," Shi said.

"From a solitary grain of sorghum to a refined glass of baijiu on our tables, the grain undergoes so many transformations," Shi reflected on her career, likening her journey to that of a grain. "Distillation is a realm where diligence surpasses born talent. Whatever profession we choose, we should love it, and ultimately, excel in it."

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