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A Scottish feast that is poetry to body and soul

By Ian Morrison | CHINA DAILY | Updated: 2024-08-23 08:20
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Food not only nourishes the body, it also nourishes the soul. The psychological impact of food is an interesting one, as it can also bring back memories.

This was the case when I recently had the chance to once again enjoy the traditional Scottish dish of haggis after many years.

Haggis is one of the most quintessential and characteristic aspects of Scottish culture, along with whisky.

For those of you who do not know what haggis is, let me explain.

It is composed of the liver, heart and lungs of a sheep, minced and mixed with beef or mutton suet and oatmeal, and seasoned with onion, pepper and other spices. The mixture is packed into a sheep's stomach and boiled.

To those of you who have never tried it, the notion of eating sheep organs may sound unpleasant, but I promise you that it is quite delicious.

But don't just take my word for it. This traditional dish, which was born out of necessity due to its humble ingredients, was described in the following terms in the 2001 edition of the famous French gastronomic encyclopedia Larousse Gastronomique: "Although its description is not immediately appealing, haggis has an excellent nutty texture and delicious savory flavor".

But haggis means much more to Scots than simply being a traditional, and very characteristic dish.

The cultural connotations of haggis are very strong indeed. It is, in fact, an iconic part of Scottish culture.

That is due to its connection with the country's renowned national poet, Robert Burns (1759-96). Burns is celebrated not only for his outstanding poetry, but also for the democratic and progressive views he espoused, as he was a great admirer of both the American and the French revolutions.

Haggis is part of the special meal (along with potatoes and turnip) Scots eat each year to commemorate Burns' birthday on Jan 25. These "Burns Suppers" can actually be quite an elaborate affair, with a special ceremony to bring the haggis into the dining hall involving the playing of bagpipes, the recitation of some of his poems, and the drinking of large quantities of whisky.

This traditional celebration of Scotland's national bard has changed very little since it was first known to have taken place in 1802 in the town of Greenock. In fact, it is such an important event that it is celebrated more than Saint Andrew's Day on Nov 30, which is Scotland's official national day.

The significance of the Burns Supper has reached far beyond the shores of Scotland, which is a mark of the poet's cultural significance, and his legacy.

Many of the celebrations are held by the widely dispersed Scottish diaspora in countries as far afield as Canada and Australia, but they are even held in Russia. Burns' legacy is so strong there that he featured on a special commemorative stamp issued in 1956 by the former Soviet Union.

So if you choose to celebrate the man described as "the greatest Scot" when his birthday comes around again on Jan 25, you will be in the company of millions of people in many parts of the world. And I hope you enjoy the haggis.

 

Ian Morrison
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