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Journey of good taste has star appeal

One of few female chefs to win the Michelin honor, passionate dim sum restaurant owner cherishes recognition from her customers, He Qi reports.

By He Qi | China Daily | Updated: 2025-01-03 06:05
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Under Chen Lina, xiaolongbao, or the steamed stuffed buns, work magic. [Photo provided to China Daily]

A double-edged sword

Despite Chen's dedication and hospitality over the years bringing numerous honors to the restaurant, fame seems to be a double-edged sword.

The constant influx of customers often leads to long queues. Witnessing guests who make a special trip but cannot be accommodated leaves her feeling guilty.

When faced with some negative online reviews, Chen meticulously reads through each one, feeling aggrieved by the controversies. She struggles to understand why her diligently crafted products and establishment attract certain negative feedback.

Nevertheless, her innate optimism allows her to swiftly overcome these emotions. She says: "Say what you want to say. I have a clear conscience. I just want to offer the best to everyone. Those who come into the restaurant are my guests and I treat them like family."

Chen warmly addresses each customer as "little brother", "little sister", "brother" or "sister". Her employees demonstrate to customers how to eat each xiaolongbao with enthusiasm.

Living alone in Shanghai while her husband and daughter live in Japan, Chen longs for family reunions but can't bring herself to let go of her employees and customers.

"Even though I sometimes feel frustrated and tired, I see my employees working diligently and I feel refreshed. I want them to earn more to support their families. It's more about responsibility. I haven't seen my family for a long time but I don't know which side to give up."

Despite many hardships, xiaolongbao remains her source of joy.

"I've tasted sour, sweet, bitter and spicy in my life but whenever I think of xiaolongbao, all my troubles fade away and my emotions disappear," she says.

In December, Wu You Xian launched an English menu with clear instructions on how to enjoy xiaolongbao. When she sees foreign guests, she gestures and requests help all around. On the day of the interview, customers from Japan, Singapore and France were seated.

"I tried xiaolongbao in hotels and they were good but these are better for sure. You can taste the sophistication and freshness," remarks Jullien Florent, a Parisian. A friend recommended that he try the xiaolongbao based on the Michelin Guide.

As far as the future, Chen hopes to build her small restaurant into a century-old establishment passed down through generations.

"As I age, I aspire to settle down, observe the bustling activity from my office, and document the images and stories of everyone and everything that have happened at Wu You Xian."

The essence of her restaurant's warmth shines through every detail, echoing the Michelin judging panel's words: "While our focus typically centers on the food when awarding stars, Wu You Xian goes beyond. As we savor their delicious xiaolongbao, we not only enjoy exquisite flavors and innovation but also witness a dedication to perfection in every product detail despite its street-side setting. Their hospitable treatment of guests exudes a genuine human touch."

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